An Excerpt from Bernadette McDonald's Alpine Rising

A message from Bernadette McDonald -

The inspiration for “Alpine Rising” came while doing research for my last book, “Winter 8000”, which is about climbing 8000-metre peaks in winter. A niche activity, to be sure. I was interviewing elite high-altitude climbers, trying to understand their attraction to the unique ‘art of suffering’ that best describes climbing above 8000 metres in the coldest season. One of the most impressive was Pakistani climber, Ali Sadpara. Despite growing up in extremely modest circumstances in the village of Sadpara, and having had no formal training in mountaineering, Ali was one of the world’s leading high-altitude winter specialists.

Yet, Ali was almost unknown outside his country. Unlike his famous climbing partners from Italy, Poland and Spain, his accomplishments were often ignored. I wondered if this was unique to Ali’s experience or if it was a trend. 
That question took on a life of its own as I dove back in history, reading mountaineering narratives all the way back to the early 1900s. What I found was actually shocking. Countless examples of local climbers from Pakistan and Nepal working tirelessly on expeditions led by foreign mountaineers, yet receiving very little recognition, compensation or respect. They were often not even named. 

The situation today is a stark contrast to those early days. Some local climbers – particularly Nepali Sherpas – have achieved global stardom with all of the trappings. They are well trained, are internationally certified mountain guides, are running their own businesses and travelling the world. But they are still the minority.

What I’ve learned from talking to climbers from Pakistan and Nepal is that too many are still learning on the job – usually in extremely dangerous situations. Many are not being paid fairly for the work they are doing, and are not insured, either for injury or death. These men and women are spending their days at high altitude helping foreign climbers achieve their dreams. And when the climbing season ends, they return to their villages to herd livestock or build roads. They are not superstars, they’re not famous and they’re not rich. They are just trying to earn enough to educate their children.

“Alpine Rising” is about giving these individuals a voice to tell their own stories. This book is about respect – for all of these men and women who work in the highest mountains on Earth, who are emerging from out of the shadows, and into the light that they so deserve. I have never been so impressed, humbled and moved by the strength of the characters I was honoured to meet. 

“Alpine Rising” is published by Mountaineers Books. Bernadette will share stories from her book on November 1 at the Banff Mountain Book Festival.
 

K2, January 2021

Everyone was glued to the weather forecasts. As usual, they varied. Mingma
G was using a forecaster from Nepal, whereas Nimsdai’s and Ali Sadpara’s
teams were following European experts. Ali Sadpara’s team opted to wait
for better weather, but Nimsdai and Mingma G decided to launch a summit
attempt. There would be ten Nepali climbers: three from Mingma G’s team,
six from Nimsdai’s team, and Sona Sherpa from the SST team.

Nimsdai and his group headed up as far as Camp 2 on January 12. Mingma
G delayed his own departure until January 13, when his team climbed all the
way to 7,000 meters. Even though they were heavily loaded with equipment
for the upper part of the mountain, they reached 7,350 meters at Camp 3 on
the fourteenth and continued fixing lines an additional 300 meters. On the
morning of the fifteenth, Mingma G, Mingma David, Mingma Tenzi, and
Sona began fixing lines up toward Camp 4.

Mingma G described what happened next: “We followed the way to Camp
4 the same way we do in summer.” But this wasn’t summer. At this point,
Mingma G was fixing and the others were assisting. After fixing 400 metres
of rope, they were approaching the steep wall below Camp 4 when a problem
arose: “We found a big crevasse, which was impossible to cross. . . . We tried
more on the right side, still the same. Then we descended back a little and
tried to find a way on the left side—again it was the same so we descended
all the way back to just above Camp 3.” This was a devastating situation
since they essentially had to start all over again. Using what was left of the
beautiful day, they persevered and fixed a completely new line up to Camp
4. Luckily, a serac had collapsed over part of the gaping crevasse, providing
a tentative bridge. Exhausted from breaking trail and fixing lines, Mingma G
stepped aside while Mingma Tenzi took over the lead.

At around 4 p.m. they arrived at Camp 4, the route fully equipped below
them. “Our first reaction was winter K2 will be ours, and we hugged each
other because we knew we would make the summit next day,” Mingma G
said. Their efforts had been immense. The route from Camp 3 to Camp 4
usually takes two to three hours; they had taken eight. Still, he was elated.
“We talked a little bit about our luck and hard work before descending.
Whenever we are on the mountain, we pray to the mountain for our safety
and we also pray for her to accept us. The Goddess K2 accepted us this time.”
They rushed down to Camp 3 and began preparing for the summit bid, which
would begin in a matter of hours. The forecast for January 16 was even better
than expected, so instead of starting at 11 p.m., their original plan, they felt
comfortable delaying the start to 1 a.m.

Camp 3 began stirring at midnight. After the usual ordeal of lighting the
stoves, boiling water, double- and triple-checking the contents of their packs,
and then stuffing their feet into their high-altitude boots, they emerged from
the tents, one by one. Nimsdai, Kili, Dawa Tenjin, Sona, Dawa Temba, and
Mingma Tenzi left first. Mingma G came to the sad realization that his previous
day’s efforts had so exhausted him that he didn’t feel strong enough to
climb without oxygen. Disappointed, he fiddled with his oxygen regulator,
which didn’t fit properly. He eventually found a spare regulator but chilled his
fingers dangerously in the process of attaching it. By the time he was finally
ready to start up, the others were already nearing Camp 4. It didn’t look like a
promising summit day for Mingma G.

He left Camp 3 with Mingma David, Pem Chhiri, and Gelje. They reached
Camp 4 two hours later and were shocked at the chilling effects of the wind.
When Mingma G stopped for a few moments on the upper side of a crevasse
while waiting for Mingma David, he became so cold he considered turning
around. “I almost gave up there because I was worried to lose my toes.”
He checked his watch. It was 5 a.m. In another hour the sun would appear
above the horizon, so he decided to continue, at least until dawn. At the same
moment that he felt the first warming rays of the sun, the wind miraculously
dropped. The four climbers stopped to soak up the rays and warm themselves
before climbing up to the Bottleneck. The heat from the sun had given
them extra energy and hope.

The first group was fixing lines up the Bottleneck, Mingma Tenzi leading
the way. Mingma G’s group climbed toward them, finally catching up before
the traverse. Nimsdai urged them on: “We all had that common pride, a
common goal. This was for Nepal.” When they reached the small plateau 200
meters below the summit, they stopped to brew some tea. After resting a bit,
Mingma Tenzi resumed fixing. They were still four hours from the summit.
They planned to stop around 10 meters from the top and continue as
a group to the highest point. “We all started moving together and our 360
GoPro was on,” Mingma G said. “We then started moving towards the
summit singing the National Anthem. This was my third time summiting
on K2 but this time it was connected with the pride of the nation. . . . It was
a thrilling moment. I had tears in my eyes and my body was shaking itself,
bearing goosebumps. No member in the team can explain the moment we
had there.”

The ten Nepali climbers stepped onto the summit at 4:43 p.m., January 16,
2021. First winter ascent of K2.

The video of their final steps to the summit sped around the world, delighting
millions. What a sight: their faces lit up by the low-angled sun, the distinct
curvature of the earth as their backdrop, their crimson and gold suits
as bright as jewels, and that magnificent indigo sky.
 

Excerpted from Alpine Rising: Sherpas, Baltis, and the Triumph of Local Climbers in the Greater Ranges by Bernadette McDonald (March 2024). Published by Mountaineers Books. All rights reserved. Reprinted with permission.

Bernadette McDonald has authored thirteen books and has won numerous awards, including two Boardman Tasker Prizes, the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize, Italy’s ITAS Prize, and India’s Kekoo Naoroji Award. In 2011 the American Alpine Club awarded her their highest literary honour for excellence in mountain literature.

Bernadette was the founding Vice President of Mountain Culture at The Banff Centre and director of the Banff Mountain Festivals for 20 years. She received the Alberta Order of Excellence in 2010, is an honorary member of the Himalayan Club and the Polish Mountaineering Association, and is a Fellow of the Explorers Club.

When not writing, Bernadette climbs, hikes, skis, paddles and grows grapes.
 

Located in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, the Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival is a globally recognized event and tour celebrating the beauty, adventure, and culture of mountains globally. The nine-day festival will be held from October 26 through to November 3 this year and features over 70 events, bringing films and stories of adventure and exploration from around the world to Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity in Banff, Alberta. The festival showcases live events with adventurers, authors, photographers, and filmmakers sharing their inspiring stories.

Online films are available in Canada and the United States from November 6 to 13.

Please visit banffcentre.ca/film-fest for more information.