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From Left to Right – Chamshen Kangri, Saser Kangri I and Plateau Peak

 Laknak Kangri (Golden Eagle Peak) has a unique aerial view.

Before August 14th, 2024, no one had ever seen the entire Karakoram range from the top of Laknak Kangri. Until Divyesh Muni, experienced mountaineer and Indian Tour Host for the Banff Mountain Film Festival, led a team to summit peak 6496 in the Karakoram.

The Karakoram is not for the faint of heart. It is dry, rugged, and home to massive glaciers. The expedition started on August 1. They reached Base Camp August 6. After hours of searching, they found a location for Camp 1 at 5670m, and arrived on August 10. Initially, they could only see ice walls on the route to the summit. Eventually, they traversed up to a crevasse, following it until they could cross. On August 13, they moved to Summit Camp at 6100m. The next morning, despite bad weather, the team made the steep final summit climb. At 9am on August 14, they summited peak 6496.

His first attempt was in 2023, but poor weather and health problems prevented his team from summiting. Not one to give up, Divyesh tried again. He continued training and built a new team.

Divyesh notes that the criteria for his team is simple; “friendship and compatibility,” and skill. Muni also encourages a less-skilled climber to join each expedition to learn. This expedition included Sudeep Barve, Yogesh Umbre, Phuphu Dorji, Sangbu Bhutia, Phurten Bhutia, three Sherpas, a cook, assistants, low-altitude porters, and, of course, Divyesh.

Everyone agreed it should be named Laknak Kangri (Golden Eagle Peak) as tribute to the unique aerial view. After prayers and photos, the team began their long descent.

Divyesh calls the feeling “indescribable.”

With 26 other first ascents under his belt, we’re sure Divyesh won’t be stopping after this one, and we look forward to seeing what he does next.

Author: Akcinya Kootchin, Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity

Located in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, the Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival is a globally recognized event and tour celebrating the beauty, adventure, and culture of mountains globally. The nine-day festival will be held from October 26 through to November 3 this year and features over 70 events, bringing films and stories of adventure and exploration from around the world to Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity in Banff, Alberta. The festival showcases live events with adventurers, authors, photographers, and filmmakers sharing their inspiring stories.

Online films are available in Canada and the United States from November 6 to 13.

Please visit banffcentre.ca/film-fest for more information.

Media Contact

Interested in reporting on this or any other Banff Centre story? Members of the media can reach out to communications@banffcentre.ca for more information.